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Bordeaux 2001 Vintage - The Verdict

 

This year’s annual en primeur tastings for the Bordeaux 2001 vintage were held in several wonderful Chateaux across the region. Again, a wonderful effort from the ‘Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux’ for organising the main thrust of the tastings.

My humble verdict on the 2001 vintage is that it is a quality vintage with some great efforts from many Chateaux. Being the neighbour of the 2000 vintage will not sit comfortably for the 2001 vintage, nor for several producers due to a few reasons.

First, the 2000 vintage was of extraordinary quality across the board and therefore people may be quick to try and draw direct comparison, which will be difficult. Some brave chateau representatives ventured that they thought this vintage [2001] was better than the last, but the reasons offered were limp and unconvincing. Careers in double-glazing sales should be discouraged for these people. Simply put, the good 2001 doesn’t reach the dizzy height of the excellent 2000.

Second, the 2000 vintage was extraordinarily highly priced. So for a vintage that follows a very good and ridiculously priced vintage what can we expect? Well, hopefully a reduction in price (which given that the cost of producing the wine is roughly the same as last year I’d have rather had an average price over the 2 years), but also many firms took up much of the 2000 offered to them and consequently some are still sitting on a pile of the stuff. Therefore the incentive for these firms to take a big position in 2001 will only be if the price is right.

In broad terms, the 2001 season was excellent, with only some vineyards experiencing rain at the time of harvest, but some excellent weather made it by all accounts an easier vintage to succeed in. Here are my notes:

 

Crus de Pessac Leognan – Held at the great Chateau Smith Haut Laffite

 

Chateau Bouscaut

White: Lemon & grass without being a monster & too acidic

Red: Solid and blocky – just a little tough. It didn’t help being the first in line after having tasted all the reds. Sorry

 

Chateau Carbonnieux

White: light & delicate. Not a gobby white, a tad thin but pleasing

Red: I never quite get it with this wine. OK but not spectacular fruit and some pretty stark tannins – didn’t change even 2nd time around just to confirm.

 

Domaine de Chevalier

White: Feisty & chunky, bit of a brute, good attacking stuff

Red: Not an easy ride – generous tannins, ok length. Nothing startling.

 

Chateau de Fieuzal

White: difficult shape – wood entry, not displeasing. Light finish.

Red: Better effort, starts with good fruit & gives a softer finish. We like

 

Chateau de France

White: Basic no frills

Red: not really. A sour entry that never recovered. Burnt leaves.

 

Chateau Haut-Bailly

Interesting – some good fruit, medium length similarly tannic but not bad

 

Chateau Haut Bergey

White: Not the finished article yet –strong / bold and showing promise.

Red: Very impressive softness, maturity and length. Using 100% new barrels and 75% Cabernet 25% Merlot, the chateau waited until the last possible moment to pick the Cabernets. We like a lot

 

Chateau La Louviere

White: nicely crafted, full of pamplemousse, the small amount of semillon shines through.

Red: Nice and tight. Good length and finesse. We like

 

Chateau Larrrivet-Haut-Brion

White: Subtle, light & nicely balanced

Red: Gorgeous concentration, floral & smooth. Excellent. We like

 

Chateau Latour-Martillac

White: Earthy offering, bits of straw with olives. Quite bold

Red: Quite distinct cherry. Didn’t really have the power but it was very smooth & umblemished

 

Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion

Red: Yes, very smooth, nice & dry almost sour. Good Graves style

 

Chateau Malartic-Lagraviere

White: Good building flavour. Doesn’t deliver a knockout which is good.

Red: Complex 2 layered entry – watery smooth & higher fruit which lasted well. Well crafted wine (50% merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc). We like

 

Chateau Olivier

White: First tasting I choked, second time round revealed a nice fat rich wine which finished very lightly. Pretty good

Red: Heart warming, rousing excellent style. Not too deep very accessible

 

Chateau Pape Clément

White: Interestingly average. God strong grapefruit finish but little else

Red: Well, almost in a different class. Enormously gathered. Great structure – no harshness. Gentle & Large. We like a lot

 

Chateau Pique Caillou

White: Had some structure, different tones more vegetal but notionally quite good

Red: Usually feel sorry for this wine – sandwiched between ‘Pape’& ‘Smith’. Quire light by comparison but actually very individual – a few firm tannins after a mild start

 

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte

White: Biting but also fragrant. Very good balance

Red: Nothing wrong whatsoever with this wine. Fairly powerful, foot on the pedal all the way. Builds from the entry, no holding back. Top effort. We like a lot

 

Crus de Graves (Also at Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte)

 

Chateau de Chantegrive

White: No opacity and a good, easy to understand vanilla. Good momentum. Nice try

Red: Flattering entry, nice & gentle. Even & mild. Extremely good. (55%Cabernet Sauvingnon, 45% Merlot with 1/3 new barrels)We like

 

 

Chateau Ferrande

White: Crystal clear – the finished article. Obviously can wait but already a good firm drop.

Red: Almost minty entry, no rough edges. The fruit is even and apparent

 

Chateau Rahoul

White: Almost a roasted quality. Plain deep & pretty good

Red: Nothing to write home about yet. An ok effort, again not harsh

 

 

Crus de Saint-Emilion

 

Chateau Angélus

Deep & dark, totally committed monster. Finish not too long.

 

Chateau Balestard La Tonelle

Easy entry & then the old menthol trick. Thoroughly pleasant.

 

Chateau Beau-Séjour Bécot

Dark, but less concentrated than expected. Still some excellent new fruit, very fresh and finely balanced. We like

 

Chateau Canon

Interesting, couldn’t get a handle on this really. OK balance, nothing really stood out. No corners though – nice long and subtle.

 

Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere

Gobsmacking wine. A very dark offering. Unobvious but very distinct nose. Then from the start enormous fruit and huge length. Unbeatable? We like a lot.

 

Chateau Cap de Mourlin

Feisty & a little less approachable. Fairly concentrated, but a little tough & inflexible

 

Chateau Dassault

Succulent little number, not unattractive, just even tempered fruit shows

 

Chateau Figeac

Violet colour, pure sweet and nicely balanced, a good effort and the structure is there

 

 

Chateau Fonplégade

Early ripe fruit in the mouth, it doesn’t hold on too much but is none the worse for it. Edgy finish with no real structure but it’s a good light St-Emilion

 

Clos Fourtet

Starts innocently and promises much but gets spiky half way through and falls away disappointingly

 

Chateau Franc-Mayne

Nice and juicy, no rough edges. Nice fruit extraction – very good chunky wine. Particularly dark, yet no distinguishable nose.

 

Chateau Grand Mayne

Dark. Harmonious menthol mixed with some great fruit. This is a little different – lots of character.

 

Chateau La Couspaude

Even-tempered & very gentle entry. Turns into a very stable good effort.

 

Chateau La Dominique

A very well textured wine. Plenty of fruit, plenty of depth. Not typical St Emilion – more Pomerol in style (which is unsurprising give its proximity & soil type). We like

 

Chateau La Gaffeliere

To be honest I didn’t get a total grip on this one, but it ended up being of the fruit / menthol combo. Gentle in all respects, a hint of wood shows – earthy effort.

 

Chateau La Tour Figeac

No real character here. This may be because it resembles some of the other ‘medium’ wines. It doesn’t change anything for me. Not bad none the less.

 

Chateau Larcis Ducasse

Here is a stylenot insistant on the menthol / cherry formula. Light fruit early doors fills out into a decent mouthful.

 

Chateau Larmande

Started off promisingly. Gave a hint of big ripe fruit, however it fell away dramatically…The wine promised more, ended up wanting more.

 

Chateau Troplong Mondot

Probably one of the biggest structures on show from the St-Emilions. Great for a Troplong Mondot (which traditionally I have a difficult time with), ok fruit early when the big structure becomes noticeable. Don’t know whether the fruit will stand up to the structure – will be interesting.

 

 

Crus de Pomerol

 

Chateau Beauregard

Structure, length, fruit, balance, poise etc. Tasted twice on this occasion and the wine was excellent 2nd time, and had a clever finish of roasted meaty flavours. Excellent. We like.

 

Chateau Clinet

Quite a butch wine – chunky & blocky, some very good strong fruit. Excellent. We like.

 

Chateau Gazin

This wine seems very alcoholic – a smooth effort, it lacks the total depth but it’s early days.

 

Chateau La Cabanne

Quite laid back, nothing jumps out and grabs you but a solid effort with no harshness.

 

Chateau La Conseillante

A simpler Conseillante than usual. Light fruit, very elegant and harmonious. The blockbusting rush isn’t there, but that’s fine.

 

Chateau La Croix de Gay

This wine has some balls. It’s not all smoothness and light but at least it’s interesting.

 

Chateau La Pointe

A rude Chateau representative was totally uninspired by their wine or the desire to show them off to the world. Shame. The wine on the other hand was stunning. Big full and lasting well, the wine edges forward in flavour at the finish. We like

 

Chateau L’Evangile

This was slightly firmer than many. Holds all the way through, no flabby bits, a real pleasure.

 

Chateau Petit Village

Hugely dark in colour, expecting massive fruit which came in early. It ended up with a bit of a temper though. The wine was a little cold which can’t have helped matters.

 

 

Crus de Moulis en Médoc

 

Chateau Chasse Spleen

Lovely succulent wine – light juicy / grassy fruit. Medium length and good vitality. We like

 

Chateau Maucaillou

A more violetty menthol version. Nearly neat & tidy – a little light but not at all bad

 

Chateau Poujeaux

Again a classic from Poujeaux. Slowly building fruit which is very pleasing and rewarding. Fine delicate structure – soft & sophisticated. We like

 

 

Crus de Listrac- Médoc

 

Chateau Clarke

A short nobbly affair. It didn’t really elevate as per Poujeaux but it is simple

 

Chateau Fonréaud

Luscious red colour. I was having trouble breathing which is not the most desirable status for tasting wine ..! Anyway, the wine is short & sharp. Nothing like as flexible as the 2000, it’s more austere & stalky.

 

Chateau Fourcas-Dupré

Agile wine, not too tough in the given company, but short & sweet.

 

Chateau Fourcas-Hosten

Smelt of hay with fertilizer, tasted of nice hay. What can I say? Very agricultural.

 

Crus de Haut-Médoc

 

Chateau Beaumont

Very nice light fruit peeping through early on. Doesn’t dry out at all. Very good effort.

 

Chateau Belgrave

Extremely dark & concentrated. May have been slightly prickly, but it’s strong stuff. Did it have enough fruit.

 

Chateau Camensac

This had bags of attacking tannins – too many? A little untidy

 

Chateau Cantemerle

A very good long Cantemerle: Eases into some soft fruit, then goes mentally strong. Nealry loses the plot but this is a very interesting ride / wine. We like

 

Chateau Citran

Great. Two good things here: immediate fruit falling away to mildness, then it all starts again. Superb, well done. We like

 

Chateau Coufran

Wine actually helped by being served fresh. Not quite the ‘bags of fruit’ rousing finale, but ok. Standard stuff, if a little plain.

 

Chateau de Lamarque

Scratchy from the outset, just a little clumsy. Mild fruit and medium tannins.

 

Chateau La Lagune

A gentle wine that has great length medium fruit and almost the liquorice thing.

Nice length.

 

Chateau La Tour Carnet

Very good, nicely balanced, but has it overstretched itself? I think there is a very good balance between reticent fruit and present tannins & it works well. Good effort. We like

 

Chateau Malescasse

Distinct nose, very…blackcurrants & spice (what an original tasting note!). Eventually unfolds into a very tidy effort. Marries up with the tannin well. Liked it.

 

 

Crus de Médoc

 

Chateau Greysac

Interesting, the fruit (or anything) was very slow to develop. Reticence slowly faded & it nearly got to a crescendo. Charming wine.

 

Chateau La Tour de By

As smoky as they come – a very herby roasted effort. Very obvious and not bad at all. We like.

 

 

Crus de Margaux

 

Chateau Brane-Cantenac

Quite a meaty effort that gently builds. No huge flavours but steady & rich.

 

Chateau Cantenac Brown

Manages to combine some rich fruit with some stony minerals. Also quite rich

 

Chateau d’Angludet

Fairly limp. OK fruit but didn’t grab me. Finished with some leather and stalk. Shame.

 

Chateau Dauzac

Quite lively and spicy. Disappointing finish but started off full promise. It will soften. OK

 

Chateau du Tertre

Early fruit then settles down to a steady gentle wine. Medium coarse but good early

 

Chateau Dufort Vivens

Difficult to label. Some interesting soggy fruit to start then finishes with a crash. Blackberry soup pie with burnt crust

 

Chateau Ferriere

Didn’t scale any heights. Left me with a wooded / stark leather feel. Not the best

 

Chateau Giscours

Quite warm and rounded. Good fruit, gentle concentration. Good effort but lacking complexity

 

Chateau Kirwan

This will probably grow into something quite good. A sharp pointed precise wine. Good fruit but again fairly low on complexity.

 

Chateau Labégorce

Almost sour fruit in entry, then closes up to a fairly tight / strong and austere. There is complexity without the sweet flavours – a very good try but not to my particular taste.

 

Chateau Lascombes

Relatively stony on exit, fairly mild going. Did it dry out too much at the end?

 

Chateau Malescot Saint-Exupery

Quite soft, fat & flexible. Actually a very pleasant texture, the fruit not overly pushy but that’s not a problem. Better than most….

 

Chateau Marquis d’Alesme Becker

Yes, fairly gentle all the way through. No corners, no bumps – gentle fruit.

 

Chateau Marquis de Terme

Not as flexible as the 2000. This was fairly average and needs to have another tast in 6 months. Couldn’t find much fault or much style

 

Chateau Monbrison

OK, this is really neat. Some great flavours, nice complexity and above all well constructed and gentle. We like

 

Chateau Prieuré-Lichine

Spicy maybe, but lost much of that with a wavery structure. Couldn’t quite get into it.

 

 

Crus de Saint-Julien

 

Chateau Beychevelle

Rounded and quite gentle. Toasted nose, softer that imagined

 Leaves very pleasantly. A St-J defined. We like

 

Chateau Branaire

Slightly austere, some stalky tannins, but when the wine is fading / receding it turns into a mild affair.

 

Chateau Gruaud Larose

On the nose – sweet & plumy but it didn’t quite live up to it. Not a usual dark monster but more gentle. Looked for bags. Looked for bags of fruit, didn’t get it. Still not bad.

 

Chateau Lagrange

Colour is vibrant pink - light red fruits predominate. A more fleshy nose with the fruit released ˝ way through after a medium start. A very nice St-Julien.

 

Chateau Langoa Barton

Almost indifferent in style here. Nothing harsh, marginally ‘aquatic’, no real length quite light but no corners.

 

Chateau Léoville Barton

This has got fruit – not bucket loads but it’s subtle and it does have a big tannic structure. This should do very well

 

Chateau Léoville Poyferre

Started off very promisingly, and nearly held on but had some big structural tannins masking fruit development. Mild on the nose. Pretty good.

 

Chateau Talbot

This Talbot is a wonderful, stable, light & supple wine. Good fruit and great length. There is more merlot in the 2001 than the previous year. We like

 

 

Crus de Pauillac

 

Chateau Croizet Bages

Very good concentration which could be a winner. Good medium fruit, not too dark. Good effort

 

Chateau Grand-Puy Ducasse

Light, bouncy and very friendly. A quite aggressive tannic finish which didn’t hurt the enjoyment. This could last well

 

Chateau Haut-Bages Libéral

Excellent fullish start – flat and stable middle. Enough mild fruit to make it interesting. Very good. We like.

 

Chateau Lynch Bages

Quite a long bruising wine. No big surprises, no huge fruit but an even tempered effort.

 

Chateau Lynch-Moussas

Well presented and measured effort. It didn’t go the extra mile to deliver huge fruit, but this wine never really does this but here is one example of how this makes the wine all the more harmonious. Good effort

 

Chateau Pichon-Longueville (Baron)

Yes, not mindblowing fruit but it starts off very solidly, holds superbly and gives a nice dry finish. This is good Pichon. We like

 

Chateau Pontet-Canet

Quite a firm, closely knit wine. It didn’t suffer from being slow and inactive. Quite short and blocky. Not bad atall.

 

 

Crus de Saint-Estephe

 

Chateau Cos Labory

A very stark wine that didn’t really wake up or deliver anything till its dying breath.  A strong wine.

 

Chateau Lafon Rochet

Quite difficult to judge as it was mild through most of the introduction, almost flabby, but held on for a good finish. Possibly great, but the watery intro confused me.

 

Chateau Les Ormes de Pez

Fairly even with no fireworks. Good structure, ok fruit.

 

Chateau Phélan Ségur

Too big? Considering that at the Chateau they’re trying to calm this wine down, I found it very big in structure, nearly missing any fruit. It’s difficult to imagine what may happen with this wine. Interesting..